In Cordillera Administrative Region (CAR) when you caution irrational people not to start, refrain or stop using illegal drugs, they bark back not by saying, “Mind your own business!” But by saying. “Siyak ti sikan, ta sikan ti siyakon!”
That phrase, in a nutshell describes the many ways people go the length of getting high or doping despite warnings. In the Philippines, many indulge in prohibited drugs which is mind-boggling and troubling despite knowing the fact that later, the long arm of the law will eventually collar them.
As for Daily Laborer, he would rather try to learn to indulge in moma-chewing, masticating that betel nut which is frowned upon by Local Government Units (LGUs) in Cordillera Administrative Region (CAR). Chewing moma is not a crime, per se, but spitting out the red juice here, there and everywhere is what invites government wrath.
And, moreover not to invite CAR government ire on him, Daily Laborer will learn how to swallow the red juice of the moma, hoping he’ll acquire a glowing red skin which will surely be the envy of CAR males and which makes females gravitate towards him with praises like, “Oh, my, how red is your skin. You look like the Indians of the American West! Nakaka-inggit ka talaga! Sana ganyan din ang kutis ko!”
If some people in nations in Southeast Asia inhale opium either as a social custom or an addictive practice, well do you know what people in the country of Sudan indulge in to concentrate, relax or socialize?
They chew the leaves of a plant called khat or qat, scientifically known as Catha edulis.
Daily Laborer learned about said habit when he stopped over in Khartoum capital of Sudan, on his way to the Middle East to cover an assignment requirement for being a Fellow of a journalism fellowship.
In towns and villages of this troubled country in the Arab Peninsula, Daily Laborer spotted people chewing the leaves of the qat plant, whether they be huddled in groups, at home or during family get-together.
One Sudan citizen, who wanted to be identified merely as “Abdullah,” (for obvious reasons since he indulges in gunrunning), a Kalashnikov rifle slung on his wiry shoulder and a handle of an aging pistol peeping from his Tob – a loose full-length dress which Sudan men and women traditionally wear – explained qat chewing to many in Sudan is a ritualized habit.
It is also a habit in many countries in the Arab world.
When Daily Laborer told Abdullah he was a journalist on assignment, Abdullah perked up, touched Daily Laborer’s clothes looking for hidden cameras, sat down satisfied and said, “Ok, we talk, but no cameras or photos, agree?” The Daily Laborer agreed.
Abdullah who said he entered college but quit when trouble roiled his country. He had a good grasp of English.
Since 2021, Sudan has become isolated when a power struggle broke out in the country and rival generals battled who would run the country. Forces loyal to two generals are vying for control, and as often is the case, Sudan civilians have suffered the worst.
Abdullah, who himself chewed qat leaves which he offered to Daily Laborer the time they sat down for a talk, hinted he was in the illicit arms trade selling Kalashnikovs and other weapons to the paramilitary Rapid Support Forces, the fall-out army known for human rights violations and atrocities as well as to members of the standing Sudan Army.
Abdullah informed Daily Laborer (who politely declined the qat offer) that “I can distinguish a bad and good Kalashnikov in the same way I can distinguish a Rapid Support Force militia from the Sudan Army and in the same way I can distinguish a good qat.”
But for the most part, nobody complains as long as there is supply of the leaves, be they second rate or expensive, Abdullah hinted.
When Daily Laborer asked if he was a Rapid Support Force militia or if his sentiment leaned towards the Sudan Army, Abdullah smiled wryly and answered, “My new friend, I am neither. I consider myself an in-between.”
“I sell them what they want, guns, grenades, ammo and qat and after they consume qat, they shoot each other into pieces while I watch by the sidelines, enjoying my chewing of qat. As for the two generals wanting to rule over Sudan, bah! You don’t even see their shadows on the battlefields.”
Abdullah went further to say: “I chew qat to concentrate and it’s the only way for me to stay awake or relax.” He intimated he couldn’t kick the habit of chewing qat. That intimation of Abdullah caused Daily Laborer to ponder too, about his co-Filipinos back home failing to rid the habit of using illegal drug substances.
They happened to meet in a shady place on the market in Khartoum, where shady and spooky people congregate and away from prying eyes of the law.
It’s there where, as early as 7 in the morning or late into the evening, a qat market opens. Khartoum is a very dangerous place, parts of the city being lawless where armed men roam freely and where their sense of justice is often met through the barrel of a gun.
In the run-down edges of this desert city, qat is sold openly and it draws buyers like a magnet. Even a cursory look around the city suggests men, women – even youngsters – gather or hunker for a session of qat chewing, their eyes turning red and glassy from the plant’s amphetamine-like properties.
The plant qat, which originated from Yemen, contains cathinones, an active brain stimulant similar in structure and pharmacological activity to amphetamines and ingestion of qat can bring about results in decreased appetite, euphoria and/or hyper alertness.
In fact, qat chewing has become a problem in the Arab world. Last year Saudi Arabia seized 30 tonnes of narcotic qat. Yet Abdullah swears by his dead forebears that qat is not addictive any more than his drinking coffee or making love to his wife is addictive.
In Saudi Arabia, penalties for chewing qat are similar to those for drinking alcohol.
Such assertion of Abdullah made Daily Laborer merrily remember efforts of Philippine law enforcement authorities through seminars reminding Filipinos illegal drugs are addicting.
But drug users continue their illegal activity forcing CAR drug enforcement officers not say to drug users, “Enough grow up!” But CAR drug enforcement officers, in exasperation, say in Ilocano, “Maminsan kunak pay, makaraman kan ti baot ti linteg!”
Abdullah even said that in parts of Sudan, Yemen and other Arab countries, mystics have recommended qat as a means to commune. Commune with whom, Abdullah shirked to elaborate but he just mysteriously smiled.
Which made Daily Laborer laugh about drug addicts/users in his home CAR. He narrated to Abdullah of one time a drug user in CAR swore that when he uses illegal substance, he said “he is able to commune or in Ilocano, pannakimaymaysa.”
“And what did you do when that drug user said he was able to commune?” Abdullah asked the Daily Laborer.
Daily Laborer explained that instead of saying to the drug user, “Are you sick? Let us go to the hospital. I will call a doctor,” he instead said in Ilocano, “Pannakimaymaysa, kunam eh? Ayna, na-am-amlingan ka. Mayka ta kuddot-kudotek dayta rupam ta bareng sumayaat ti panagpanonot mo!”
For ordinary Sudan individuals, Abdullah related their main debate is about the best shop to buy qat, the best area where to grow qat or whether qat is best accompanied by cola, water or tea.
In response, Daily Laborer told Abdullah that in the Philippines, there are no shops to buy illegal drugs for these are peddled covertly. He also explained there is one place in the Philippines which is the Cordillera and known as the marijuana growing area in the Philippines.
As to whether illegal drugs are best accompanied by cola, water or tea, Daily Laborer could not answer Abdullah since he does not engage in said illegal activity.
But Daily Laborer told Abdullah he heard of drug users baking marijuana like pies and they called these “brownies.” Hearing this, Abdullah wondered he would also try mixing their own qat in their traditional Sudan pastries, saying, “Eh, my new friend, you just gave me a fine idea for business.”
The Daily Laborer slapped his head in frustration hearing Abdullah. He muttered, “Damn me, why did I reveal that! I just gave a bad idea to this spooky gunrunner.”
Qat is not under international drug control but nonetheless, in many countries, its use is considered illegal. In Qatar, cultivation, selling or casual chewing is prohibited.
In Yemen, for example, qat leaves are everywhere and considered a booming business to war-weary Yemenis. Some Western observers see qat as an opium of the masses in Yemen’s authoritarian tribal culture.
There was one burning question Daily Laborer wanted to ask Abdullah before he skipped out of Khartoum: Wouldn’t too much qat chewing bring some kind of intoxication or some kind of “high on cloud hell?”
Before Abdullah can answer, a run-down vehicle whisks by, almost sideswiping them. The dilapidated vehicle wove erratically then stopped. The window opened and the driver poked his head, while his mouth worked frantically to swallow and chew the qat leaving poking out from his lips. His eyes were reddish and glassy.
Abdullah didn’t have to answer. For, by just looking at the driver, Daily Laborer got the answer to his query.